I make these in small batches as time permits. Something I do not have much of these days. So I will have predominately just a few woods always ready, for now.
Note: These are examples. The actual wood species varies, but currently consist of Bubinga, White oak, Hickory, Zebra Wood and a few one off woods.
They are all the same price. $110.00 plus shipping.
Yes, Finally. After over two years or so of sitting on one of my work benches, with a " I'll get to it someday" wait......I got to it. :)
Designed to be held comfortably in one hand for a subtle push or tapped with a mallet for a little more convincing. This stylish tool was designed with the discerning craftsman in mind.
I comtemplated for some time what would be the best, most robust design, for these little tools. After several versions were made, tested, and remade...I settled on this one.
So here is what makes these one of the most stylish yet durable half blind kerf tools out there.
1) The 0.015", 0.020" or 0.025" thick x 3" long x 1" tall plate is firmly imbeded into the 0.25" x 0.625" tall x 3", 360 brass spine.
2) The 0.315" deep spine slot is compressed to create a very tight fit, requiring a mallet to assemble. ( Yes, it really is that tight )
3) A two part epoxy is applied prior to assembly, for a durable long lasting bond between the brass and 1095 spring steel.
4) The spine is then bored in two places and a brass pin is peened into place, further preventing any possible movement of the plate within the spine.
5) The comfortable gent saw handles are an ideal fit with a 2" deep mortice cut to the shape of the 0.25" x 0.375" x 2" tang. Avoiding any possible rotation.
Problem: A wooden handle will eventually split and break if a tang is inserted and the handle struck from the opposite end....I wanted some thing that could, within reason, "take a beating".
6) First, I incorporated a solid 1/16th" thick ,brass, closed end ferrule over the end of the wooden handle morticed to the same shape. Similar to the robust ferules I use on my gent saws. If the spine should ever shift, it would simply transfer the impact to the heavy duty brass ferrule, much like that of a socket chisel.
7) Next, I incorporated an impact rod threaded into the end of the 2" long brass tang traversing all the way through the wooden handle of choice and being capped off with a brass strike cap at the opposite end of the handle. The result is an impact rod that transfers the force of the blow to the tang and ultimately into the plate. Not into the wooden handle.
You may tap on the top of the brass back, or if you prefer, hold it like a chisle and tap on the brass cap.
Problem solved. Some may say I over engineered them. I say NOT.
So there you have it. A tool designed to last.